Italy

The walk into the garden of the Castel Gandolfo is into a place of mystery, and maybe intrigue, but indeed a long history.

Rarely Entered Often Passed

Rarely Entered Often Passed

The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere (Italian: Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere); English: Our Lady in Trastevere) is a titular minor basilica in the Trastevere district of Rome, and one of the oldest churches of Rome. The basic floor plan and wall structure of the church date back to the 340s, and much of the structure to 1140–43. The first sanctuary was built in 221 and 227 by Pope Callixtus I and later completed by Pope Julius I. The church has large areas of important mosaics from the late 13th century by Pietro Cavallini.[1][2] (Wikipedia, 2021)

Santa Maria in Trastevere

Santa Maria in Trastevere

The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere (Italian: Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere); English: Our Lady in Trastevere) is a titular minor basilica in the Trastevere district of Rome, and one of the oldest churches of Rome. The basic floor plan and wall structure of the church date back to the 340s, and much of the structure to 1140–43. The first sanctuary was built in 221 and 227 by Pope Callixtus I and later completed by Pope Julius I. The church has large areas of important mosaics from the late 13th century by Pietro Cavallini.[1][2] (Wikipedia, 2021)

One way or other, we almost always traversed St. Peter’s Square or at least had it hard insight as its mass was undeniable, ever-present, and useful. It is a long-ago learned tool of navigating foreign territory to find at least one landmark that will guide one back to one’s bed and especially food if at all possible. I had a deep appreciation for St. Peter’s Basilica for all the wrong non-spiritual reasons. It was crowded as Pope Francis had given an audience this bright morning. Currently, we were headed to La Zanzara Bistro for the more mundane task of lunch. Time had been allowed for any that might want to attend the audience. My recollection was that I was on solo navigation to the ristorante. I almost always picked something from the menus, which I had no clue what it might turn out to be. This time it turned out to be a ball of cheese & tomatoes - Italian Caprice salad, tomato mozzarella cheese, and basil. I was never disappointed. I was never hungry. After lunch, we were headed to the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, the Baths of Diocletian, and the National Museum of Rome. Had I known that these were to be my favorite stops in the entire ten days, I would have had lunch in any case! St. Peter’s Square is massive, and if one tarries, it fills up like a rain barrel with people flowing over its sides in great streams bubbling out in every which direction. Go when they first open, and the place is yours. Play the tourist, and the lines will be hours in duration. I loved the clouds.

Fontana del Pantheon

Fontana del Pantheon

I went in once. This Roman temple with a circular opening at the apex is indeed beautiful. it was converted into a Chiesa in the 7th century. I would not recommend a visit unless you can find a time in Rome when no one is in this Piazza della Rotonda, in the Pantheon, or in Rome itself. The Pantheon and Piazza della Rotonda were always jammed.

Potaverunt me aceto

Potaverunt me aceto

Angel with a sponge - an instrument of the passion. This is one of a series of angles on the bridge over the Tiber leading to the Castel Sant'Angelo.

The Tiber is no Mississippi, but someone found a way to live on the river.

Catherine & Agnes

Catherine & Agnes

There was reconnoiter. There were decisions. There were schedule times for mass consulted. Google Maps gave up the distances and walking times. The Hat and his fast eight headed across the Tiber deep into the Campus Martius - the Field of Mars. They were headed for the Chiesa della Santissima Trinità dei Pellegrini. I was headed there too, but a pace that would release me from mass but should get me there in time for lunch. I was happy. I was also concerned that I would never find this particular Chiesa. The concern was justified, but I did as it turned out & I made lunch. I was happy because even though I had a destination, the destination could wait some while I inhaled Rome in a more relaxed manner. When I did finally find the piazza, I was greatly reassured by the visage of Louisiana Long fresh from a continental breakfast in a place on the piazza and a visit to the nearest tabacchi. If Louisiana Long was there in the piazza in front of this chiesa, then the Roman birds would be under the bells.

Santa Maria in Traspontina

Santa Maria in Traspontina

Santa Maria in TraspontinaSetting the Wikipedia history below aside for a moment. I remember walking the Via della Conciliazione past this bell tower in 2006 as we walked to St. Peter's from our hotel. I found it striking then, and every time I've seen it since.Santa Maria in Traspontina (or Transpontina) is a Carmelite church in Rome, Italy. The shrine lies on the Via della Conciliazione, the main road of the Rione Borgo.The church was established as a cardinalitial titulus by Pope Sixtus V on 13 April 1587.[1] The current Cardinal of Santa Maria in Traspontina is the former Archbishop of Quebec, Marc Ouellet, a supporter of Opus Dei,[2] who is now the Prefect of the Sacred Congregation of Bishops in the Roman Curia. (He was Cardinal Priest from 2003 to 2018, and continued there when co-opted to suburbicarian rank.) (Wikipedia, 2019)

The Fountains of St. Peter's Square (Italian: Fontane di Piazza San Pietro) are two fountains in St. Peter's Square in Vatican City, created by Carlo Maderno (1612–1614) and Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1667–1677) to ornament the square in front of St. Peter's Basilica. The older fountain, by Maderno, is on the north side of the square.. (2021, Wikipedia)

Monte Cassino (sometimes written Montecassino) is a rocky hill about 130 kilometers (81 mi) southeast of Rome, in the Latin Valley, Italy, 2 kilometers (1.2 mi) to the west of the town of Cassino and 520 m (1,706.04 ft) altitude. Site of the Roman town of Casinum, it is best known for its abbey, the first house of the Benedictine Order, having been established by Benedict of Nursia himself around 529. It was for the community of Monte Cassino that the Rule of Saint Benedict was composed. (Wikipedia, 2018)

The view from Monte Cassino was nothing but stunning. The bus ride was a curving road up a steep grade that provided eclipsing view from several directions. We walked the remaining grade into the abbey. Everything rose higher and then there were the steep steps up to the church. Each rise took one to a new vantage. The best was through the arches bordering the plaza at the edge of a long drop into the vineyard.

We waited for a long while to obtain a seat in Pane e Salame. There were no regrets on my part concerning the wait.

We waited for a long while to obtain a seat in Pane e Salame. There were no regrets on my part concerning the wait.

Apse mosaic of the Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls (1220) - Roma - Italy. The apse mosaic was made by Venetian artists. Christ is flanked by the Apostles Peter, Paul, Andrew, and Luke. The small figure near Christ's feet is Pope Honorius III, who ordered the mosaic. Pope Honorius III (1148 – 1227), born Cencio Savelli, was Pope from 1216 to 1227. Apse mosaic (1220). Christ flanked by the Apostles Peter, Paul, and Andrew, and St. Luke. (Wikipedia 2018)

We always came in from the sides as in the left arm of the cross, which is the architecture of St. Paul Outside the Walls. It is startlingly impressive to come into the building from the foot of the cross then draw up toward the apse.

Iter Romam via Ianiculum

Iter Romam via Ianiculum

The class went up the Ianiculum to do their first reading. I had a private tour as I was separated & lost. I was concerned that I would never find them. I would never be able to keep up over the course of ten days. Most importantly, I was afraid I would never find Dar Poet, which was essential as it was the location of dinner that evening.

The Pines of Rome by Ottorino Respighi is my reference point for associating Rome and pine trees. As mature trees pinus pinea are indeed impressive, and seemed to be all over the place in Rome. That first afternoon I was standing on the Janiculum which I did not know were the pines in focus for the nocturne (third) movement of Respighi’s symphonic poem. That information would have not eased my concern as I was on my own in Rome on top of a hill. I did know know if it was the correct hill, but I was there. The view was fantastic. The pine trees were monumental. I was lost but Rome was all around me. I just had to walk down the hill, find my way into the Trastevere, and to Dar Poeta. Nothing to it.

Gate of St. Anne

Gate of St. Anne

We were scheduled to meet with Msgr Daniel Gallagher at the Gate of St. Anne for a visit to the Apostolic Palace at 8:15 AM and learn about the folks who translate everything into Latin. It was a wonderful treat to have a view from a non-tourist perspective.

The Church of St. Louis of the French (Italian: San Luigi dei Francesi, French: Saint Louis des Français, Latin: S. Ludovici Francorum de Urbe) is a Roman Catholic church in Rome, not far from Piazza Navona. The church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, to St. Denis the Areopagite and St. Louis IX, king of France. The church was designed by Giacomo della Porta and built by Domenico Fontana between 1518 and 1589, and completed through the personal intervention of Catherine de' Medici, who donated to it some property in the area. It is the national church in Rome of France. (Wikipedia, 2019)

Sant'Agnese in Agone

Sant'Agnese in Agone

Sant'Agnese in Agone is a 17th-century Baroque church in Rome, Italy. It faces onto the Piazza Navona, one of the main urban spaces in the historic centre of the city and the site where the Early Christian Saint Agnes was martyred in the ancient Stadium of Domitian. (Wikipedia, 2019)

Sant'Agostino is a Roman Catholic church in the piazza of the same name near Piazza Navona, in the rione Sant'Eustachio, of Rome, Italy. It is one of the first Roman churches built during the Renaissance. Adjacent to the church is the Biblioteca Angelica, a library founded in 1605. The construction the church was funded by Guillaume d'Estouteville, Archbishop of Rouen and Cardinal Camerlengo (1477-1483).[1] The façade was built in 1483 by Giacomo di Pietrasanta, using travertine taken from the Colosseum. The design of the church is attributed to the late 15th century architect Baccio Pintelli, with later 18th century restorations of the interior by Luigi Vanvitelli.[2] It is a plain work of the early Renaissance style.[3] (Wikipedia, 2019)

Our hotel was to the east near the Tiber and, as it turns out, just across the river from The Villa Borghese. We were on a short leash before moving on the ship for sailing here & there in the eastern Mediterranean. Our desires leaned toward the Vatican as that is about all that ever appears on American television. We were tourists.

Santa Caecilla in Trastevere

Santa Caecilla in Trastevere

I missed this church last year and the small garden in the space between the church and the arch leading to the piazza. Last year I mislaid the group, and I only caught up at Dar Poeta. The teenagers and adults present in the churchyard did not seem like tourists. Although we were there and there were other visitors, somehow there was a set that appeared to be part of the place. They were participants in the life surrounding and functions within it. The garden between the fountain the entrance to the sanctuary held a rose garden which did not look professional, but it was lovely.

Wedding Stroll on the Ponte Sant'Angelo

Wedding Stroll on the Ponte Sant'Angelo

They strolled across the bridge past Castel Sant'Angelo. I lost them as they moved up Via della Conciliazione.

There is always a crowd waiting in line, walking around, and walking through St. Peter's Square.

This turned into a long read of Latin, which was fine as I had time to wander around this space outside the actual entrance to the National Roman Museum. The whole sat across the very busy set of roads that service Termini. It was actually quiet and peaceful as I strolled through this garden of fountains, ancient carved stone statues, and advertisements for museum events.

Mosaico Pavimentale

Mosaico Pavimentale

It has been centuries, so the really priceless or just beautiful pieces have long made their way into museums & private collections far & wide. I loved the National Museum of Rome as we were able to walk through many exhibits in some leisure and undisturbed. Included is a very rough translation of the museum sign for this work using my ace high school Spanish translation skills - vis-a-vis in this case an Italian - English dictionary. The Hat has mad language skills and thus can make his living teaching Latin. I do not. I love the sounds of words, their meanings, and that humans name things. I want to know what words mean. I want to know the names of things and the meanings of the words associated, whether it is a flower or an ancient mosaic from a villa out on the via Portuense. It is the silent repetitive flowing through the brain of the sounds that are so sweet.

Our residence sits on the north & west side of Janiculum. Especially in the evening, we spent a fair amount of time climbing the steps and road of Janiculum. It was always worth the effort.

The Basilica of St. Agnes Outside the Walls is to the north and east of the Vatican City in a neighborhood. We took a bus to get there, but I do not remember how we traveled back. What I like the most was all the old window glass built into building section dividers here and there. It is a lovely wavy glass and brings abstraction into the real world.

Santa Sabina Arches

Santa Sabina Arches

The Basilica of Saint Sabina (Latin: Basilica Sanctae Sabinae, Italian: Basilica di Santa Sabina all'Aventino) is a historical church on the Aventine Hill in Rome, Italy. It is a titular minor basilica and mother church of the Roman Catholic Order of Preachers, better known as the Dominicans. Santa Sabina is perched high above the Tiber river to the north and the Circus Maximus to the east. It is next to small public park Giardino degli Aranci (Garden of Oranges), which has a scenic terrace overlooking Rome. It is a short distance to the headquarters of the Knights of Malta.

Fontana Di Lungotevere Aventino

Fontana Di Lungotevere Aventino

Well, when determination fails, then help on the name & location of this fountain from my son was the help I needed! I really liked this pool and lion.

Clivo dei Publicl

Clivo dei Publicl

This is the back road down off the Aventine Hill leading down to the Tiber River.

Stadium of Domitian

Stadium of Domitian

We saw a lot of red brick structures on the Palatine Hill, with some structures named and labeled and many without identity. This structure was completely unique and obviously of some formal purpose. I suppose, given the length and shape, one could make the leap to the athletic/gladiatorial venues we had seen, but I did not. The structures laid out in the grass impressed me as being of some religious significance. Its purpose was primarily athletic and impressive place that only an emperor of Rome could have built.

The trail off and out the Palatine Hill runs past a wall of various vines. This wisteria made the leaving a vision.

Donna Costanza Piccolomini d'Aragona

Donna Costanza Piccolomini d'Aragona

A church was initially planned when Donna Costanza Piccolomini d'Aragona, Duchess of Amalfi and descendant of the family of Pope Pius II,[1] bequeathed[when?] her palace and the adjacent church of San Sebastiano in central Rome to the Theatine order for construction of a new church. Since Amalfi's patron was Saint Andrew, the church was planned in his honor. Work initially started around 1590 under the designs of Giacomo della Porta and Pier Paolo Olivieri, and under the patronage of Cardinal Gesualdo. The interior of the church was completed by 1650. (Wikipedia, 2019)

The Church of the Gesù (Italian: Chiesa del Gesù; Italian pronunciation: [ˈkjɛːza del dʒeˈzu; ˈkjeː-]) is the mother church of the Society of Jesus (Jesuits), a Catholic religious order. The Church of the Gesù is located in the Piazza del Gesù in Rome. Officially named Chiesa del Santissimo Nome di Gesù all'Argentina[1][2] (English: Church of the Most Holy Name of Jesus at the "Argentina"),[3] its facade is "the first truly baroque façade", introducing the baroque style into architecture.[4] The church served as a model for innumerable Jesuit churches all over the world, especially in the Americas. Its paintings in the nave, crossing and side chapels became models for Jesuit churches throughout Italy and Europe, as well as those of other orders.[5]. (Wikipedia, 2018)

I love that one can walk to Argentina! One sees unique situations. Largo di Torre Argentina is a square in Rome, Italy, with four Roman Republican temples and the remains of Pompey's Theatre. It is in the ancient Campus Martius. The name of the square comes from the Torre Argentina, which takes its name from the city of Strasbourg whose Latin name was Argentoratum. (Wikipedia, 2018)

Chiesa di Sant' Ignazio di Loyola

Chiesa di Sant' Ignazio di Loyola

The Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola at Campus Martius (Italian: Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola in Campo Marzio, Latin: Ecclesia Santi Ignatii a Loyola in Campo Martio) is a Roman Catholic titular church, of deaconry rank, dedicated to Ignatius of Loyola, the founder of the Society of Jesus, located in Rome, Italy. Built-in Baroque style between 1626 and 1650. (Wikipedia, 2019)

Church of the Gesù

Church of the Gesù

The Church of the Gesù (Italian: Chiesa del Gesù; Italian pronunciation: [ˈkjɛːza del dʒeˈzu; ˈkjeː-]) is the mother church of the Society of Jesus (Jesuits), a Catholic religious order. The Church of the Gesù is located in the Piazza del Gesù in Rome. Officially named Chiesa del Santissimo Nome di Gesù all'Argentina[1][2] (English: Church of the Most Holy Name of Jesus at the "Argentina"),[3] its facade is "the first truly baroque façade", introducing the baroque style into architecture.[4] The church served as a model for innumerable Jesuit churches all over the world, especially in the Americas. Its paintings in the nave, crossing, and side chapels became models for Jesuit churches throughout Italy and Europe, as well as those of other orders.[5]. (Wikipedia, 2018)

Stairway to Heaven

Stairway to Heaven

The church's name derives from the fact that the first Christian church structure on the site was built directly over (Italian: sopra) the ruins or foundations of a temple dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis, Latin: Sancta Maria supra Minervam) is one of the major churches of the Roman Catholic Order of Preachers (better known as the Dominicans) in Rome, Santa Maria sopra Minerva (Saint Mary above Minerva, which had been erroneously ascribed to the Greco-Roman goddess Minerva[1] (possibly due to interpretatio romana). The church is located in Piazza della Minerva one block behind the Pantheon in the Pigna rione of Rome within the ancient district known as the Campus Martius. The present church and disposition of surrounding structures is visible in a detail from the Nolli Map of 1748. (Wikipedia 2018)

Few popes have left a greater mark on the fabric of Rome than Urban VIII (r. 1623-44), whose heraldic bees swarm all over the Eternal City. Pope Urban VIII belonged to the Barberini family, whose coat of arms takes the form of three bees. The family hailed from Barberino Val d'Elsa, a small village near Florence, and were originally called the Tafani da Barberino. Tafani is the Italian word for horseflies, and it was a trio of horseflies rather than bees, which originally graced the family's coat of arms. As the family moved up the social ladder, transferring first to Florence and then to Rome, they dropped the first part of their name and replaced the horseflies with bees, an insect with a much better pedigree in the arcane world of symbols. Pope Urban VIII was a prolific patron of the arts and, during his two decades in power, the Barberini bees popped up in every form, from stucco to stained glass. (Private Tours of Rome, 2018)

Few popes have left a greater mark on the fabric of Rome than Urban VIII (r. 1623-44), whose heraldic bees swarm all over the Eternal City. Pope Urban VIII belonged to the Barberini family, whose coat of arms takes the form of three bees. The family hailed from Barberino Val d'Elsa, a small village near Florence, and were originally called the Tafani da Barberino. Tafani is the Italian word for horseflies, and it was a trio of horseflies rather than bees, which originally graced the family's coat of arms. As the family moved up the social ladder, transferring first to Florence and then to Rome, they dropped the first part of their name and replaced the horseflies with bees, an insect with a much better pedigree in the arcane world of symbols. Pope Urban VIII was a prolific patron of the arts and, during his two decades in power, the Barberini bees popped up in every form, from stucco to stained glass. (Private Tours of Rome, 2018)

The Basilica of St. Mary of the Altar of Heaven (Latin: Basilica Sanctae Mariae de Ara coeli in Capitolium, Italian: Basilica di Santa Maria in Ara coeli al Campidoglio) is a titular basilica in Rome, located on the highest summit of the Campidoglio. It is still the designated Church of the city council of Rome, which uses the ancient title of Senatus Populusque Romanus. (Wikipedia, 2018)

Go to Tivoli! Go to the Villa d'Este. Go to the Ristorante Sibilla. Make the time to wander around the town of Tivoli. Sit on the park benches overlooking the valley below the town. There are waterfalls there to see too. Absorb the delightful train ride across the valley and then up the rise into town.

The Hundred Fountains were another celebrated marvel of the gardens in the Renaissance. They are located between the oval fountain and the Fontana di Rometta, and there are actually nearly three hundred spouts fed by three parallel canals, one above the other. Along the edge of the upper canal, there are spouts in the form of lilies, the emblem of France, alternating with the d'Este eagle, boats, and obelisks, all spraying water in a fan shape. The water is captured by the second canal, which feeds it into spouts in the form of masks, from which it reaches the lower canal. (Wikipedia 2017)

The Fountain of Rometta

The Fountain of Rometta

The Fountain of Rometta is located at the opposite end of the Hundred Fountains from the Oval Fountain. It is an important piece of the symbolic story told by the upper gardens; the waters of the Tiber River emerge in the Tiburtin Mountains, symbolized by the Oval Fountain, run through the valley (The Hundred Fountains) and arrive at the gates of Rome; the Rometta Fountain is Ancient Rome in miniature; the real city was visible in the distance behind the Fountain. The fountain was designed by Pirro Ligorio and built by Curzio Maccarone between 1567 and 1570. (Wikipedia , 2018)

This tiny sign was posted next to an open door that takes one into another world.

This was embedded in a column. It certainly told any visitor that they were entering an exceptional house. It is.

There is not much like the views or the time of day with a glass of vino rosso in view.

There is no doubt that Tivoli sits on the edge of a mountain as the view is stunning walking to the Ristorante Sibilla.

The Oval Fountain was one of the first fountains in the garden and among the most famous. It was designed by Pirro Ligorio, the architect of the villa, as a water theater, spraying water in a variety of forms. It was begun in 1565 and finished in 1570. It was made by fountain engineers Tomasso de Como and Curzio Maccarono, with sculpture by Raffaello Sangallo. (Wikipedia, 2019)

Santa Maria sopra Minerva (Saint Mary above Minerva, Latin: Sancta Maria supra Minervam) is one of the major churches of the Roman Catholic Order of Preachers(better known as the Dominicans) in Rome, Italy. The church's name derives from the fact that the first Christian church structure on the site was built directly over (Italian: sopra) the ruins or foundations of a temple dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis, which had been erroneously ascribed to the Greco-Roman goddess Minerva[1](possibly due to interpretatio romana). The church is located in Piazza della Minerva one block behind the Pantheon in the Pigna rione of Rome within the ancient district known as the Campus Martius. The present church and disposition of surrounding structures is visible in a detail from the Nolli Map of 1748. (Wikipedia, 2021)

Dominican Wiindow

Dominican Wiindow

Santa Maria sopra Minerva (Saint Mary above Minerva, Latin: Sancta Maria supra Minervam) is one of the major churches of the Roman Catholic Order of Preachers(better known as the Dominicans) in Rome, Italy. The church's name derives from the fact that the first Christian church structure on the site was built directly over (Italian: sopra) the ruins or foundations of a temple dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis, which had been erroneously ascribed to the Greco-Roman goddess Minerva[1](possibly due to interpretatio romana). The church is located in Piazza della Minerva one block behind the Pantheon in the Pigna rione of Rome within the ancient district known as the Campus Martius. The present church and disposition of surrounding structures is visible in a detail from the Nolli Map of 1748. (Wikipedia, 2021)

Santa Maria sopra Minerva (Saint Mary above Minerva, Latin: Sancta Maria supra Minervam) is one of the major churches of the Roman Catholic Order of Preachers(better known as the Dominicans) in Rome, Italy. The church's name derives from the fact that the first Christian church structure on the site was built directly over (Italian: sopra) the ruins or foundations of a temple dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis, which had been erroneously ascribed to the Greco-Roman goddess Minerva[1](possibly due to interpretatio romana). The church is located in Piazza della Minerva one block behind the Pantheon in the Pigna rione of Rome within the ancient district known as the Campus Martius. The present church and disposition of surrounding structures is visible in a detail from the Nolli Map of 1748. (Wikipedia, 2021)

Santa Maria sopra Minerva (Saint Mary above Minerva, Latin: Sancta Maria supra Minervam) is one of the major churches of the Roman Catholic Order of Preachers(better known as the Dominicans) in Rome, Italy. The church's name derives from the fact that the first Christian church structure on the site was built directly over (Italian: sopra) the ruins or foundations of a temple dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis, which had been erroneously ascribed to the Greco-Roman goddess Minerva[1](possibly due to interpretatio romana). The church is located in Piazza della Minerva one block behind the Pantheon in the Pigna rione of Rome within the ancient district known as the Campus Martius. The present church and disposition of surrounding structures is visible in a detail from the Nolli Map of 1748. (Wikipedia, 2021)

I think it was the quiet, the stillness, and the low light. The many other highly decorated churches of numerous later dates often were highly prized stops on the many tours. Maybe Fossanova also falls into that category, but when we visited the gothic ones, they were usually sparsely populated. There was not enough gold leaf to attract. If one were going to set out in search of the soul, then this would be the kind of place to aid in the travel.

Water of the Doves

Water of the Doves

It was a place that the Germans and the Americans were not going to destroy. They did so in any case. Maybe not the first on anyone’s list of things to do, but rebuilding Monte Cassino started after the war and was completed in 1964. That seems pretty remarkable given all the devastation just in Italy resulting from World War II. The Americans bombed the hell out of the place, mistakenly thinking the Germans were using the Abbey for military purposes. It is lovely.

As we walked to the Ristorante Sibilla the views were wonderful out across the valley. Suore Salesiane Oblate Del S. Cuore looked out of place but perfect dominating the arid terrain.Tivoli sits on the edge of a hill. This alley was some of the more level sections of walking to dinner.

Tivoli sits on the edge of a hill. This alley was some of the more level sections of walking to dinner.

Circle of the Heavens

Circle of the Heavens

The real gig here was the Baths of Diocletian, which we went to after the Basilica. I liked the Basilica better though I did not see an explanation for all the astrological imagery. Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri and the Baths of Diocletian seem to be connected but are two separate entities, sort of back to back.

There are lots of rocks in Rome. Some of those rocks are exquisite. This particular rock was in the National Roman Museum in the part directly attached to the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri. There is no particular story attached to this stone except that until we went to the National Roman Museum, frankly, most of the rocks were not much to behold. I think it was a visual hunk of what any self-respecting backyard gardener would have long ago turned into a planter. I have no idea. I wish I did, but it would make no difference as it is the beauty of the whole object and the beauty of its parts that is so attractive, not its functio

I just about lost the Hat as I was dawdling in the circuitous passages running along the Abbey garden but finally leading to this chapel. I do not remember if I saw one last foot hit the narrow stairs or if there was some other clue, but up I climbed. Latin was being pursued with abandon. Although the pews were relatively new, the place was very old. One of the many exceptional additions was the use of screens on the window openings. Screens were a rare thing anywhere we went to in Rome, and indeed they appeared unnecessary. The sunlight was intense, so perhaps the screens were in some fashion, supposed to filter out a portion of the light. Or maybe the country birds down this way in Fossanova were not as bright as the city birds and thus required encouragement to stay outdoors.

I think it was the quiet, the stillness, and the low light. The many other highly decorated churches of many later dates often were highly prized stops on the many tours. Maybe Fossanova also falls into that category, but when we visited the gothic ones, they were usually sparsely populated. There was not enough gold leaf to attract. If one were going to set out in search of the soul, then this would be the kind of place to aid in the travel.

Fontana del Pantheon

Fontana del Pantheon

Fontana del Pantheon at Piazza della Rotonda features a six-metre obelisk The Fontana del Pantheon(English: Fountain of the Pantheon) was commissioned by Pope Gregory XIII and is located in the Piazza della Rotonda, Rome, in front of the Roman Pantheon. It was designed by Giacomo Della Porta in 1575 and sculpted out of marble by Leonardo Sormani. In 1711, Pope Clement XI requested that the fountain be modified and had Filippo Barigioni design a new layout, which included a different basin, made of stone, and the Macuteo obelisk, created during the period of Ramses II, set in the centre on a plinth with four dolphins decorating the base. (Wikipedia, 2018)

I think it was one of those mornings when there was a papal audience or some other wonderful reason that one had the opportunity to wander around. We were heading to Ostia Antica and my favorite spot Piazza della Rocca. The only worry was to be at the train station at the appointed time. I was, but I made do with my morning by taking a stroll.

I had never walked back around the short block of housing that forms an outer visual barrier to the inner homes. There were interesting things to see back there.

In 2006 when we drive around the Colosseum at night, it seemed distant, remote & very large. It is large in comparison to much around it, but it is not isolated or distant.

There must have been an active trade in hauling the lame & elderly up and downstairs in Rome as there are a lot of really long ones. The Catacombs of Domitilla has an exit that requires walking up the second-longest set of steps I experience in Rome. It is worth the climb out of the catacomb as Domitilla is a really wonderful garden in the world of the surface.

The Piazza della Rocca is such a small little place sitting between Ostia Antica and the modern town. It has its Chiesa, a castle, a gated religious area, and these several residences. They are quaint, beautiful, and obviously, residences lived in, in ordinary ways.

Anyone who drives has experienced looking for a gas station. I was not but found one that had something better than gas - flowers.

I did not want to be an American or an American Tourist - worse. In that regard, I had never walked back into the rear of the Piazza della Rocca as I did not want to invade into what might be private spaces. In the third year, I could no longer resist, so I did not. No one was there, nor could I ascertain that anyone was inside any of these obviously lived in residences. I thus could retain my dignity and a feeling of having done nothing that might cause comment from the locals.

Back to the Tiber

Back to the Tiber

The Clivo dei Publicii which is a wide paved path between walls was the back way down to the Tiber down off the Aventine.

Sant’Andrea della Valle

Sant’Andrea della Valle

Sant'Andrea della Valle is a minor basilica in the rione of Sant'Eustachio of the city of Rome, Italy. The basilica is the general seat for the religious order of the Theatines. It is located at Piazza Vidoni, 6 at the intersection of Corso Vittorio Emanuele (facing facade) and Corso Rinascimento. A church was initially planned when Donna Costanza Piccolomini d'Aragona, Duchess of Amalfi and descendant of the family of Pope Pius II,[1] bequeathed her palace and the adjacent church of San Sebastiano in central Rome to the Theatine order for construction of a new church. Since Amalfi's patron was Saint Andrew, the church was planned in his honor. (Wikipedia, 2021)

Appia Antica Break

Appia Antica Break

It was a long walk out along the via Appia Antica.

Here and there, but near most places, with high tourist traffic, there was a presence.

The Colosseum at night can be pretty. It allows one to forget its horrific past.

Italian unification (Italian: Unità d'Italia [uniˈta ddiˈtaːlja]), or the Risorgimento ([risordʒiˈmento], meaning "the Resurgence"), was the political and social movement that consolidated different states of the Italian peninsula into the single state of the Kingdom of Italy in the 19th century. The process began in 1815 with the Congress of Vienna and was completed in 1871 when Rome became the capital of the Kingdom of Italy.[1][2] (Wikipedia, 2019)

Basilica of Santa Sabina

Basilica of Santa Sabina

The Basilica of Saint Sabina (Latin: Basilica Sanctae Sabinae, Italian: Basilica di Santa Sabina all'Aventino) is a historic church on the Aventine Hill in Rome, Italy. It is a titular minor basilica and mother church of the Roman Catholic Order of Preachers, better known as the Dominicans. Santa Sabina is perched high above the Tiber river to the north and the Circus Maximus to the east. It is next to a small public park Giardino degli Aranci (Garden of Oranges), which has a scenic terrace overlooking Rome. It is a short distance from the headquarters of the Knights of Malta. (Wikipedia 2018)

There is not much like the views or the time of day with a glass of vino rosso in view.

I love this place. This was one of two I selected to go back to because it is so unique and beautiful.

We did not go as far into the heights of the Palatine Hill this year. We stood in the shade for a little Latin reading. The Palatine is amazing when one imagines it in its glory as a living place.

Caecilla's Rose Garden

Caecilla's Rose Garden

The rose garden was my favorite spot at Santa Caecilla in Trastevere. I'm so glad I did not miss out this year.

Most of what one sees of the Tiber in Rome is populated with green water, rocks, birds, shoreline, embankment walls, and some pedestrians on the walks along the river. It was a surprise to see such obviously festive riverboats.

Chiesa del Sacro Cuore del Suffragio

Chiesa del Sacro Cuore del Suffragio

I wish that I had had a chance to visit this Chiesa. It is so different than most of the basilicas/Chiesa that we walked into over several years. It is neogothic and ornate on the outside, unlike many Chiesa in Rome, which are often drab on the exterior but glorious Renaissance internally.

Just walk around any corner, and there is always a surprise.

The Mausoleum of Hadrian, usually known as Castel Sant'Angelo (Italian pronunciation: [kaˈstɛl sanˈtandʒelo]; English: Castle of the Holy Angel), is a towering cylindrical building in Parco Adriano, Rome, Italy. It was initially commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family. The building was later used by the popes as a fortress and castle and is now a museum. The structure was once the tallest building in Rome. (Wikipedia, 2019)

There was a Papal Audience, so one could wander off or not depending on preferences. I wandered to the gardens of the Villa Borghese. By luck, GPS, and dead reckoning, I ended up at what looked like a very imposing formal gate to the garden grounds. I had a lovely time walking up this official appearing boulevard.

Fountain of Aesculapius

Fountain of Aesculapius

The garden of the Villa Borghese is enormous. Even though I walked some distances in the garden, the paths continued to wander here and there as water flows downhill. Which I eventually did, intentionally making my way back down to the Tiber by the route leading past the National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art and the Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia.

I was fixated on marble & fountains. I took this photograph but did not realize I was looking at very big books until later when I was reviewing my images. Here is to seeing and reading too. Fontana dei Libri - Fountain of the Books.

Fountain Square St. Eustace

Fountain Square St. Eustace

Sant'Eustachio is a Roman Catholic titular church and minor basilica in Rome, named for the martyr Saint Eustace. The Chiesa is in the opposite direction from where we were headed, so I never did see Sant'Eustachio itself. However, I loved the fountain unnamed for me until really today. I suppose there was a plaque somewhere, but I had to run to catch up with the ever-moving Hat.

The light can be revealing in these places.

There have to be some bucks (Euros) in there somewhere!

The entry to the Palazzo Wedekind is an invitation. I photographed it easch time we visited the Piazza Colonna. I'll probaby do so the next time too.

I was fascinated with the filtered light coming into Sant'Agostino from above. The gauzy cloth gave the church an ethereal glow.

Castel Sant'Angelo

Castel Sant'Angelo

The Castel Sant'Angelo is an impressive structure and not unimportant during various attacks on the city of Rome.

Rome is just beautiful. It is old. It is ancient. There is lots of graffiti. It is just beautiful in any case. The evening light makes everything stunning.

St. Peter’s Basilica and Square are deceptively large. One feels close to the building when there is still a hike to even get close. Although thronged with tourists during the day, it still attracts many walking in the cool Roman night.

The floors that survive at the Villa dei Quintili are just stunning in their beauty.

I was following Google Maps across Trastevere by the least circuitous route allowed. The path brought me into interesting narrow places and piazzas.

I speak of no expertise, only just small useful experiences when I say that it is a comfort and pleasure to know the way back to the residence in Roma. It is also no comment on the company or the conversation. Sometimes for me, it is is just time to get up and move. I was looking forward to the walk along the Tiber at night. I was not disappointed.©2016 Joseph Yarbrough

Along the Via Appia Antica

Along the Via Appia Antica

There were villas well off the road and a few directly alongside the via Appia Antica. The villas were gated and remote. The houses along the road were gorgeous, so no obvious loss to the experience of walking into Roma along this ancient route.

Apollo and Daphne

Apollo and Daphne

Between 1622 and 1625, Gian Lorenzo Bernini sculpted a Baroque life-sized marble statue entitled Apollo and Daphne. Apollo clutches Daphne's hip, pursuing her as she flees to escape him. Apollo wears a laurel crown, and Daphne is portrayed halfway through her metamorphosis into the laurel tree with her arms already transforming into its branches as she flees and calls to her father to save her from Apollo.[1] (Wikipedia, 2019)©2017 Joseph Yarbrough

Bird of della Rocca

Bird of della Rocca

The Piazza della Rocca is such a small little place sitting between Ostia Antica and the modern town. It has its chiesa, a castle, a gated religious area, and these several residences. They are quaint, beautiful, and obviously, residences lived in, in ordinary ways.©2016 Joseph Yarbrough

I was looking forward to going to Ostia Antica because I felt like I had not seen parts of it and that somehow I had missed the barge heading down the Tiber. I still felt the same way leaving this time too, but there was the bonus of being able to go into the Church of Sant’Aurea, which we were barred from due to a wedding last year. My photographic interest was in the Piazza della Rocca itself and the buildings that enclose it. I could have wished for better light, but the structures did not disappoint.©2016 Joseph Yarbrough

Observing many modern construction site structures required merely to assemble a modern building sets the awe of what it must have required, let alone conceive of constructing massive places like St. Peter's Basilica. ©2016 Joseph Yarbrough

We saw many overwhelmingly gorgeous windows, doors, and architecture in Rome. For myself, this dome in the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri dominates all.©2017 Joseph Yarbrough

The Hundred Fountains

The Hundred Fountains

The Hundred Fountains were another celebrated marvel of the gardens in the Renaissance. They are located between the oval fountain and the Fontana di Rometta, and there are actually nearly three hundred spouts fed by three parallel canals, one above the other. Along the edge of the upper canal there are spouts in the form of lilies, the emblem of France, alternating with the d'Este eagle, boats, and obelisks; all spraying water in a fan shape. The water is captured by the second canal, which feeds it into spouts in the form of masks, from which it reaches the lower canal. (Wikipedia)©2017 Joseph Yarbrough

Midnight Chairs

Midnight Chairs

Saint Peter's is an impressive piece of architecture. There are many impressive visual issues to note. The one that gets me the most is that the dome of Saint Peter's dominates from almost any place in central Rome one cares to stand. However, stepping into the Square itself and the dome appears to recede as if it has been lowered into the building.©2017 Joseph Yarbrough

Paul's Wall (St. Paul Outside the Walls)

Paul's Wall (St. Paul Outside the Walls)

Often I was focused on the pieces and parts as we visited this glorious building which was a second visit for me. It is the incredible detail that was not just attractive, but fascinating.©2016 Joseph Yarbrough

Piazza Testaccio

Piazza Testaccio

It was the end of a long day. We were tired but dinner was not until 7:30. There was a rumble of thirst in the throng. The scout Chica scented the destination and with an exhalation, we arrived in the glorious Piazza Testaccio.©2016 Joseph Yarbrough

We were moving towards Ristorante Sibilla and towards sunset in Tivoli. We ate under the lights on the patio just out from under a canopy of wisteria with a smallish temple for our company.©2017 Joseph Yarbrough

Villa dei Quintili

Villa dei Quintili

We did not get that far out in 2015, but in 2016 we had transport out past the Villa dei Quintili and walked toward Rome over the course of the day. The villa was not open in 2017. It is well worth the walk out through the field to the ruins of the villa.©2016 Joseph Yarbrough

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What to do with all those photos?

When you have a whole pile of images that you’d like to display but do not have the time, money or space to do so, think of a collage. This solution may allow you to share those images with the important people in your life by making prints, framing the collage, or printing your collage on canvas.

You have to do the hard part which is choose the images you’d like to include in your collage. I get to do the fun part which is to arrange your images in a way that allows all your viewers to have a good look back at important memories.

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Joseph Yarbrough

Light & Shadows Photography

East Lansing, Michigan

Phone: 517-896-9139 | Email: joseph@photographyrestorationbylightandshdows.com | Address: 228 Orchard Street East Lansing, Michigan 48823
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